Docks
Whenever possible I try and visit fishing docks all over the world.I’m captivated by their natural rhythm. A sort of coalition between the sea, commerce, technology, chance and unrelenting human graft. The beauty of a working harbour is easily overlooked. Synchronised to perfection a working dock is like a pair of lungs inhaling and then exhaling over and over again. In the early hours of the morning the docks becomes a hive of activity. Swarms of workers hustle around the boats as they discharge their cargo.In seconds the catch of the day changes hands and direction like a fraught shoal of bait -fish. The choking odour of the dying sea is matched by the volume of hollering vendors and throbbing foghorns. Broadcasts from the tannoy system are twisted and reshaped by the atmospheric conditions and muffled by the vast buffer of human bodies. The essence of trade remains the same.The sale of perishable fish on a day to day basis. It’s an unforgettable experience. From the tea vendor to the skipper, every face tells a story of defiance, courage and relentless hard work.
The Colony
The age-old stigma surrounding leprosy in India means sufferers are banished to live in quarantined colonies or destined to roam the streets, resigned to a humiliating life of begging. Fear, ignorance and certain cultural beliefs fuel this outdated attitude towards leprosy.It’s a brutal existence. The sick are rejected by their families, ostracised from their communities and stripped of their worldly possessions, including their identity. My first visit was at night. I wanted to swerve the endless bureaucracy that the official channels of entry might flag in the daytime. Although I was curious to explore the modern reality of this biblical illness, I felt a creeping sense of unease as I approached the gated colony. Not for my own medical safety; on the contrary, I felt my visit might frighten the inmates. In the deep-scented shadows, I was overwhelmed by a smile so potent and magnetic, it transcended the crumbling architecture of a face stolen by the disease. What was lost in the flesh was reclaimed, amplified and deposited in the spirit. In a second I felt the magical human connection that, regardless of what the eye sees, is always visible to the heart.Since that first visit, I became a regular and privileged guest at the colony over many years. I have an overwhelming feeling of love when I think of this place and all its extraordinary inhabitants. * My undying gratitude to the late Mr Gerard Arnhold and the late Doctor Mabel Fonseca, my unspoken hero. She dedicated her life and love to so many.